Colorado Springs - Personal History - Access 09

There's something special about climbing in Colorado Springs that I find myself taking for granted.
Well, if you take into account the 300+ sunny days/year, amazing proximity to a myriad of "local" climbing areas, rock type and styles... I guess there's more than just a few things that I'm grateful for.
I've been climbing long enough that WHO I climb with has changed a lot...
---WARNING: HISTORICAL CLIMBING REFLECTION ---

It all started with Ryan. We'd head down to the 8th Street Gym after school where I was inspired and awed by guys like Arin (also proving that if you were a champ climber you got CUTE girlfriends) and Dana (The Caveman), and amused by guys like Lance (crazy enthusiastic (bushwhacking to find remote ice in Cheyenne Canyon) and hilarious) and "F-ing" Scotty (I'll still never know how Ryan survived that trip to Devil's Tower). Anyone who thinks that this wasn't the best climbing gym in Colorado Springs will have a hard time backing it up. Ryan got me onto the "US Sport Climbing Club Team" where in exchange for setting routes and other labors, we didn't have to pay to climb. We weren't meant to be gym rats - Ryan and I would get smug looks on our faces when we'd arrive for a gym session and have red Garden sand caked on our shoes from the day or two before. Although Ryan would get out climbing with anyone he could, I was pretty exclusive with him for a while.

The first expansion of our core partnership was to Dan and Jeff Russell. Their enthusiasm didn't falter even after witnessing the crud Ryan and I would get psyched on - Monument Rock!?!?! Dan and I totally wasted any learning potential in Physics class by only reading our Climbing magazines... (Ryan made up for everything with Mr. Gordon by being his superstar in Physics Bowl). Jeff's fearlessness still makes me shudder. Dan used his media skills to document and represent the Colorado Springs area climbing with his website (coloradospringsclimbing.com) which was pretty much our little crew's showcase. It's still cool to talk to people who remember the site and thought it was helpful and inspiring, even.

But all good things have to end... Now that I look back, as much as I hate to admit it, I was the first one to take a step away from the crew. I found a new muse in my future wife and climbing definitely took a back seat for a little while... Other great guys filled in my slot, notably Mike Sherwood and Brian Shelton. Then Ryan took off to school in Golden, where he expanded his friendship circle and found targets for his insatiable appetites for new rock. Dan's truck accident, Ryan's fall and Jeff's move left me feeling pretty lonely in the climbing scene.

I sought out the climbing spark in Todd and Jeremy, which lead me to Jerad, Chris, Codi and Glenn. There was even a Climbing Night or two where there were actually 6+ people in attendance in my humble basement! But that also couldn't last long...

So a few months ago, I found my climbing circle in need of resurrection. Again. This time, the lead came through the Ute Valley Bouldering Competition. A friend who took pictures didn't know how to get ahold of some climbers who were there, and asked me to find them. I obtained Dave Jones' (LordScience) email and we got together for a Ute Pass session. I guess I passed the "Tool Test" and started to be introduced to the Henchmen... Byron (Tojo), Hayden, Brian, Chris, Nick... Oddly enough, Byron's been in the Springs for years and we just didn't cross paths until one frigid, wet day at the Blowouts. They might all think I'm a loser, but I love climbing with these guys. They've introduced me to new areas, new motivation and new outlooks on climbing. Here's how I know that I'm getting a taste of the old days: I'm getting asked to go climbing and having to turn them down - a stark contrast to me hounding everyone I know without a peep in response!

This is just an attempt to put down what went through my head when I saw this poster:


If I had seen it a year ago, I would have immediately disregarded it because it involved the SCC gym (just old 8th Street stereotypes here...) and didn't have a clue about those involved. Because of the scene in Colorado Springs, because of the openness and genuine awesome spirit of guys like Dave and Byron, I'm "in the loop." I've seen the problem on the poster at Newlin Creek because Byron gave us the tour. I know Hayden's been finding and sending tons of new lines. I want to support them and celebrate their successes. I even know Keith from when he was a Web Developer for HP, just dreaming about if he could give up working for the man. I take special pride in the fact that I think I'm the only climber that Keith's been around that was banal enough that he didn't even bring his camera when we went climbing at Shelf Road together. Hopefully it's just because I'm that ugly... (there are actually a few Keith shots of me at the Garden and Ute Pass, carefully hidden away in the archives...)

Anyway, I'm so grateful to still be climbing - with friends and family that make that possible.

Props to all of the organizers for Colorado Springs Access '09. It's benefiting the Access Fund. You can have all of my beers. Go.

RCPM @ Black Sheep, April 22!!!


I've been following Roger and PH for over 10 years.
These shows NEVER disappoint. And for $15, how can you refuse?!
Support Independent Rock!



MadRock Con-Cept

When I first started climbing, there was only one shoe I had my eyes on. The 5.10 Mocc. It was the cheapest shoe out there ($100) and many of the climbers around were sporting it. Somehow Ryan convinced me later that I needed some lace-ups, so I paid the EXTREME price of $150 for the Boreal Stingers. After that, I stuck to two simple rules: Cheap and Lazy. The rest of my shoe selections came from being on sale (check out MadRock's OUTLET!) or a hook-up, and slippers with velcro or zipper closures.
  • 5.10 Moccasym (multiple)
  • Boreal Stingers
  • 5.10 Zlipper (multiple)
  • MadRock Flash (multiple)
  • MadRock Hooker Zip
  • MadRock Hooker EZ

I definitely didn't think I'd go back to lace-ups... "I boulder. I need to be able to take off my shoes off and on without worrying about the hassle of laces." But I started seeing some of my friends with them, and noted their confidence. I ordered some new Demons from the gracious and generous folks at MadRock and they had them on backorder - so in the light that I've been having problems with velcro not lasting as long as the rubber - I decided to try out the Con-Cept lace-ups.

I tried them out today at Ute Valley and I swear I had a few double-take moments where my foot stuck when I totally didn't expect it to. I felt like I was 20 pounds lighter since I was able to put so much more of my weight on my feet instead of my hands. The laces allowed me to really crank down the tightness where I needed it and weren't a hassle at all to take on and off. No worrying about if my velcro is going to pop off in the middle of the crux? I'm sold. Thanks MadRock!





Lunch Break

One of the precious things about living in Colorado Springs is having so much excellent "local" climbing. Being able to ride or drive down to the Garden\UteValley\V-Naughts to do some lunchtime bouldering is something I hope I won't ever take for granted...

Thanks for the video of yesterday's session, Todd.

Hi-Larious!

Once in a long time, a brilliant man can articulate my pain. I don't care if anyone else understands, but my kindred spirit, Nathanael May, does...

http://vimeo.com/326324

Yes, my name is Daniel...

Big Bend Bouldering

My Grandma Hansen turned 90 this last weekend and all of the Colorado family went out to Richfield, Utah for her birthday party.

And what does any climbing-dependent person (read: addict) do when there's a trip planned out to Utah...?

We would leave super-early and hit Big Bend bouldering and then the more family-friendly Arches National Park on our way to Richfield. Genius, eh?

Despite thick fog, fear of hitting an open-range cow, sub-freezing temps and mutinous kids who had been told to turn off all electronic distractions and look out the windows, we pulled into the parking lot ahead of schedule. After checking the place out and eating some lunch we all got to work. Before you knew it, it had gained at least 15 degrees and conditions were absolutely perfect for the entire fam.

As much fun as Big Bend was, the small fraction of the Arches we saw was amazing and the kids KILLED the hike to Delicate Arch - making it back just as the sun disappeared.

We have an awesome family.

Socorro & Hueco 2006

Dan, Todd and I went out to Hueco in 2006 to spread some of Ryan's ashes and enjoy the fantastic climbing. We took the Bin-To-Win and made sure to seek out the new location of CiCi's Feces...

I was reading Stone Crusade on the way down and I couldn't get the picture of Bob Murray on "Left to Roof" out of my mind. We had to stop in Socorro, NM. It was only supposed to be V5 but it took some serious effort - and with the light quickly leaving the canyon, I was freaking out. Was it worth blowing out my strength for the rest of the trip for that problem? (I woke up in the middle of the night with pain in my arms from pushing it too hard too fast...)

I proceeded to flap like no-one's business in Hueco... A fingertip flapper from Jigsaw Puzzle (frustrated, I didn't touch Moonshine Roof at all on our tour) and then a pinky flapper from the Gymnasium. But you can't fault Hueco... She's pure.

The most important part of this video is this: It's Todd's proof that he DID send Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive!!!

Ryan's Inferno

I have finally made a contribution to the Hoagie Trifecta...

Thanks to Dan Russell for doing the climb justice with his editing skills.

Thanks to Dave Phillips at the Gazette for giving Ryan some more coverage!

http://www.gazette.com/articles/hansen_44361___article.html/climb_climbing.html

Photo's courtesy of Stewart Green and Mark Tjaden:

V-Naught/Green Marker Guide

Sometimes choss becomes beautiful... when it's yours to explore and play on. Thus, the V-Naughts and Green Marker areas. Just two spots that don't really qualify for Ute Valley "proper" areas. But, I think they're excellent. I think it's evident of how excited about these boulders by making this little guide.
_______________________________________

















































































































Newlin Creek

The first time... So much to do. Footage Todd put together from our visit with Byron, Glenn, Jerad and Chris:

Fall 2006 Trip

Here's the video from the October 2006's climbing trip with Todd, Jeremy and Mike. We went to Joe's with a stop off at Frisco Buttress.

Chick Power

While I'm loading stuff on the site, I might as well have the Chick Power video...

Hueco2007 Footage

I finally got around to putting something together from last year's spring trip with Todd and Chris. Just in time for the Fall 2008 trip!



Horsetooth

The kids and I spent a few hours at Horsetooth Reservoir on Saturday before hanging out with Allison and Nate in Greeley. I convinced them to climb a little bit before the main event - throwing rocks into the water...
They are awesome! I love the highball pictures!!!













I realized that there are some problems that I can't do when it's just me and the kids... Namely ANYTHING on the Mental Block! I got up to the top of the Standard Route (a few times...) and Pinch Overhang before coming to grips with how bad it would be if I fell. "That wasn't very responsible, Daddy..."