MadRock Con-Cept

When I first started climbing, there was only one shoe I had my eyes on. The 5.10 Mocc. It was the cheapest shoe out there ($100) and many of the climbers around were sporting it. Somehow Ryan convinced me later that I needed some lace-ups, so I paid the EXTREME price of $150 for the Boreal Stingers. After that, I stuck to two simple rules: Cheap and Lazy. The rest of my shoe selections came from being on sale (check out MadRock's OUTLET!) or a hook-up, and slippers with velcro or zipper closures.
  • 5.10 Moccasym (multiple)
  • Boreal Stingers
  • 5.10 Zlipper (multiple)
  • MadRock Flash (multiple)
  • MadRock Hooker Zip
  • MadRock Hooker EZ

I definitely didn't think I'd go back to lace-ups... "I boulder. I need to be able to take off my shoes off and on without worrying about the hassle of laces." But I started seeing some of my friends with them, and noted their confidence. I ordered some new Demons from the gracious and generous folks at MadRock and they had them on backorder - so in the light that I've been having problems with velcro not lasting as long as the rubber - I decided to try out the Con-Cept lace-ups.

I tried them out today at Ute Valley and I swear I had a few double-take moments where my foot stuck when I totally didn't expect it to. I felt like I was 20 pounds lighter since I was able to put so much more of my weight on my feet instead of my hands. The laces allowed me to really crank down the tightness where I needed it and weren't a hassle at all to take on and off. No worrying about if my velcro is going to pop off in the middle of the crux? I'm sold. Thanks MadRock!


Mike, Tia & Annabelle said...

you're the only guy I know who would blog about shoes. Does this mean that you will now go for a second up Ryan's Inferno? If so, let me know so I can come up to photograph it from the top of anaconda.

Glad all is well with your feet.

sock hands said...

worry not thanfool! hundreds of fools blog about shoes... even a slew of pros in the last few months. you are in good company.

in any event: plz explain which hold you threw for a-top crystal method at das wood. did you hit it right or left? as an oppositional toothy/poor sloper, or the small gaston sweet spot?

sooo hard for me. epic failure last sunday.